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How to Make Hollandaise Sauce

Mayonnaise — that tangy, beige sandwich glue that everyone but Belgium seems to hate. Well, count me on Team Belgium because Hollandaise and its child sauces — mayonnaise and aioli — are some of the greatest condiments ever invented. The real problem is that egg emulsions — like many things — just aren't built to last. They're beautiful, fleeting memories.

Like gooey tears in rain.

Those memories are built on a truly remarkable foundation: lecithin. Egg yolks carry it in spades and the sheer amount of oil and water you can bind with a single egg yolk is incredible. The problem is that the more oil and water you add, the less flavor you get. It's a lesson in quality over quantity, because the true luxury lies in having a small amount of something remarkable rather than a flat, squeaky gel.